Pattern annotations...

Pattern annotations

Collar:
The collar didn’t require a pattern piece in order to make it. I simple just had to cut a piece of lace to the appropriate length.

Corset:
For the corset I used a simple pattern block. The pattern I used was a size 12. I chose this size as I was unsure of who was going to be my model at this point. I left the back panels of the corset unfinished until I had a model and size confirmed. Once I had a model I realised she was a size 8 and so I altered the corset accordingly. To do this I simply had to half each of the back panels in order to make it the correct size. My first thought was to trim down each of the panels leaving just enough fabric to be able to fold over and conceal the raw edges. However I opted against this, and instead decided to just fold it over in its original size. I did this because the fastening of my corset was going to be buttons with elastic loops, and so the extra fabric on that area would help to re-enforce it, making it stronger and more durable.

Skirt:
I improvised the pattern for the skirt as I wanted each pleat to be a different fabric. I was unsure of how to go about it at first and so I tested it out on paper first, cutting out panels before testing them and altering them where needed. I started by folding paper into side pleats, and colouring in where each fabric would go using a different colour. From there I cut out panels on a separate piece of paper that were the same shape as the original, and stapled them into place where the seam would be. After looking at it I decided it was too straight for the shape of the skirt I wanted to produce, I wanted more volume at the bottom of the skirt. I then began to angle the lines in for each of the panels, creating triangular shapes with the tip cut off at the top. Once I had the panels I began experimenting with the folds for the pleats, trying to determine where I would need to pleat the fabric in order for it to both hide the seam, and show an appropriate amount of the next fabric. On my first attempt I folded the panels in half and stapled them into place, I immediately realised the fault, as this resulted in the pleat of one fabric completely covering the next fabric. From here I decided to move the fold the panels a quarter of the way in, with the smallest portion being folded behind. I then stapled them together so that I could see how it would sit. I was much happier with the result, and so I scaled it up onto dot and cross paper before using it as a pattern piece for my final design.